Siem Reap, Cambodia
The first 2 days - Ta Prohm and Angkor Wat
We flew from Phu Quoc to Siem Reap with an easy layover in Ho Chi Minh City. It was our first layover but all went smoothly with walking to the international terminal, checking our luggage (since they told us no carry-ons weighing more than 7 kg), and going through security. They do not check liquids in Vietnam, which meant not having to pull out the many quart sized bags of 3 oz liquids. One of the kids’ biggest concerns going into this trip was taking airplanes, especially missing a plane. Luckily, so far, all the flights have gone smoothly so they are getting much more relaxed.
Sous-dey Cambodia!
Our AirBNB arranged for a driver to pick us up and we met him after filling out the visa on arrival applications and paying our $30 per person in crisp bills. I brought the cash from home, but it turns out there is an ATM in the arrival area that gives USD. We later learned that almost all prices are in USD and we almost didn’t need Cambodian riel. We exchanged our Vietnamese for dong for riel, but otherwise used mostly USD.
We were happy to settle into our new spot, Gourmet Bistrot Pool Villas or Philippe’s- not really sure of the name, but the villa and pool were great.
After some time cooling off in the pool, and doing some laundry (often a “settling in day” activity), we headed to the end of the road to catch a tuk tuk to dinner in town, near Pub Street. at Pot and Pan, which was recommended by Philippe. It was so good and affordable that we went there twice! We loved the Chicken Amok (coconut sauce) and the pork on skewers. Also, the french fries were delicious!
We ate a restaurant named Pot and Pan, which was recommended by Philippe. It was so good and affordable that we went there twice! We loved the Chicken Amok (coconut sauce) and the pork on skewers. Also, the french fries were delicious, as were the mango shakes. We have learned that mango shakes have mango, sugar and ice. Mango smoothies have mango, coconut milk, yogurt and ice, and probably sugar, too. Of course, we also ordered a margarita pizza, for good measure, but it wasn’t great. It was the least expensive pizza we’d had on our trip yet, though.
Notice the rice wrapped in a lotus leaf (or is it a banana or coconut palm leaf?). When served, the leaf was tied at the top, to keep the rice warm. It definitely felt like low season, as many places were empty. Hopefully not an indication of the restaurant quality! It didn’t seem to be because even our tour guide told us one of his favorite restaurants is Pot and Pan.
After some time cooling off in the pool, and doing some laundry (often a “settling in day” activity), we headed to the end of the road to catch a tuk tuk to dinner in town, near Pub Street. at Pot and Pan, which was recommended by Philippe. It was so good and affordable that we went there twice! We loved the Chicken Amok (coconut sauce) and the pork on skewers. Also, the french fries were delicious!
We ate a restaurant named Pot and Pan, which was recommended by Philippe. It was so good and affordable that we went there twice! We loved the Chicken Amok (coconut sauce) and the pork on skewers. Also, the french fries were delicious, as were the mango shakes. We have learned that mango shakes have mango, sugar and ice. Mango smoothies have mango, coconut milk, yogurt and ice, and probably sugar, too. Of course, we also ordered a margarita pizza, for good measure, but it wasn’t great. It was the least expensive pizza we’d had on our trip yet, though.
Notice the rice wrapped in a lotus leaf (or is it a banana or coconut palm leaf?). When served, the leaf was tied at the top, to keep the rice warm. It definitely felt like low season, as many places were empty. Hopefully not an indication of the restaurant quality! It didn’t seem to be because even our tour guide told us one of his favorite restaurants is Pot and Pan.
On Day 2 in Siem Reap, we met our guide Viseth, and our van driver, both of whom we found through Philippe. We arranged a half day temple tour. Our first stop was Ta Prohm, which is most notable for the trees growing out of and all around the temple.
Per the angkortemples.org website, “Rajavihara (meaning “Royal Temple”) was built from 1186, It was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It is one of the few temples in Angkor where an inscription provides information about the temple’s inhabitants. The temple was home to more than 12,500 people, including 18 high priests, while an additional 80,000 khmers, living in the surrounding villages, were required to maintain the temple. The inscription also notes that the temple contained gold, pearls and silks.” When the Khmer empire fell in the 15th century, the was overtaken by the jungle. The temple’s modern name is Ta Prohm. It is the site of the movie “Tomb Raiders.”
Per the angkortemples.org website, “Rajavihara (meaning “Royal Temple”) was built from 1186, It was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It is one of the few temples in Angkor where an inscription provides information about the temple’s inhabitants. The temple was home to more than 12,500 people, including 18 high priests, while an additional 80,000 khmers, living in the surrounding villages, were required to maintain the temple. The inscription also notes that the temple contained gold, pearls and silks.” When the Khmer empire fell in the 15th century, the was overtaken by the jungle. The temple’s modern name is Ta Prohm. It is the site of the movie “Tomb Raiders.”
The jungle takes over.
Scaffolding holding up the tree root.
The foundation of the temples were made from lava stone. The reliefs were carved into sandstone.
Here is a carving that was originally of Buddha. This temple was converted from a Buddhist temple to a Hindu temple, when a later King believed in Hinduism. A carving of Buddha was converted to a Hindu god. You can see that lotus flowers have been carved where Buddha’s knees once were located.
Lydia is pointing out the carving of a dinosaur. So the Khmers must have known about dinosaurs!
There is a forest nymph (sculpted into the stone wall) peeking out from between the roots.
See closer up view below.
These roots look like a person’s legs and backside climbing up the wall.
We learned that this is the “female organ” and would have had a “male organ” which was a column balanced over the female. Water would be poured over the male, and it would flow into the female and out the trough. Upon exit, it was considered “holy water.”
A relief of a Hindu dancer. Notice the hyperextended position of fingers, seen in traditional Khmer dancing.
The temples have been restored since rediscovery in the 1800’s. This bas-relief (sculptural relief) is especially intricate. You can see the different color stone because some is newly restored, and lighter in color.
Our next is another temple, Ta Nei, which is in a much less restored state. The children stayed with the guide in the air conditioned van, while Brian and I had a fifteen minute “date” exploring the ruins.
You may not be able to see it, but I am so hot! We needed to wear respectful clothing, with our shoulders and knees covered. They are less strict about children covering their knees, so it was okay for Hayden to wear his long shorts.
While Brian and I were on our date, the children and Viseth were checking out the gibbons in the trees nearby.
After an ice cream break, we visited Angkor Wat.
Also a summary adapted from angkortemples.org:
The name Angkor Wat means “City Temple.” It is the largest religious structure in the world. The highest tower measures 213 meters. The temple covers almost 500 acres of land.
The city of Angkor was the largest city in the preindustrial world, with a population of about 1 million people. It was the capital of the Khmer Empire, from approximately the 9th to 15th centuries. There were hundreds of temples, with Angkor Wat as the focal point. Angkor Wat was used by the king for the worship of Vishnu and became his mausoleum upon his death.
In the late 13th century, Angkor Wat gradually moved from a Hindu temple to a Theravada Buddhist one. Unlike other temples at Angkor which were abandoned after the fall of the Khmer empire in the 15th century, Angkor Wat remained a Buddhist shrine.
Portuguese explorers visited Angkor Wat in the 16th century. It was the account of French naturalist Henri Mouhot, who came to Angkor in 1860, that brought international interest. The French explorer wrote of it:
“One of these temples, a rival to that of Solomon, and erected by some ancient Michelangelo, might take an honorable place beside our most beautiful buildings. It is grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome, and presents a sad contrast to the state of barbarism in which the nation is now plunged.”
You may not be able to see it, but I am so hot! We needed to wear respectful clothing, with our shoulders and knees covered. They are less strict about children covering their knees, so it was okay for Hayden to wear his long shorts.
While Brian and I were on our date, the children and Viseth were checking out the gibbons in the trees nearby.
After an ice cream break, we visited Angkor Wat.
Also a summary adapted from angkortemples.org:
The name Angkor Wat means “City Temple.” It is the largest religious structure in the world. The highest tower measures 213 meters. The temple covers almost 500 acres of land.
The city of Angkor was the largest city in the preindustrial world, with a population of about 1 million people. It was the capital of the Khmer Empire, from approximately the 9th to 15th centuries. There were hundreds of temples, with Angkor Wat as the focal point. Angkor Wat was used by the king for the worship of Vishnu and became his mausoleum upon his death.
In the late 13th century, Angkor Wat gradually moved from a Hindu temple to a Theravada Buddhist one. Unlike other temples at Angkor which were abandoned after the fall of the Khmer empire in the 15th century, Angkor Wat remained a Buddhist shrine.
Portuguese explorers visited Angkor Wat in the 16th century. It was the account of French naturalist Henri Mouhot, who came to Angkor in 1860, that brought international interest. The French explorer wrote of it:
“One of these temples, a rival to that of Solomon, and erected by some ancient Michelangelo, might take an honorable place beside our most beautiful buildings. It is grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome, and presents a sad contrast to the state of barbarism in which the nation is now plunged.”
Crossing the bridge over the moat to Angkor Wat.
This is the center entrance of the temple, through which the Emperor would enter.
A view from the central entrance toward the entrance through which the elephants would arrive.
Another view of the central entrance.
This Buddha was in the entrance where we entered. It is a Buddhist Holy Day, so people were celebrating.
Once inside the first entrance, there is a huge open area with lakes (it is the end of the dry season).
We entered into the main temple through this very steep staircase.
Peeking out along the breezeway of the bas-relief of the story of Rama rescuing Sita from the demon king with the help of the monkey king and his monkey soldiers. Our tour guide told us this famous story in Hinduism and had us act it out. Brian was Rama, Katie was Sita, Eliza the demon king, Hayden the monkey king and Lydia a monkey soldier. The story has thousands of verses and is sculpted along this breezeway.
The demon king who could not be killed because every time he was shot in the head, he would grow a new head. Finally, Rama figured out that he needed to shoot the arrow into the demon king’s stomach to kill him.
Rama rising up to shoot his bow and arrow.
This is the center entrance of the temple, through which the Emperor would enter.
A view from the central entrance toward the entrance through which the elephants would arrive.
Another view of the central entrance.
This Buddha was in the entrance where we entered. It is a Buddhist Holy Day, so people were celebrating.
Once inside the first entrance, there is a huge open area with lakes (it is the end of the dry season).
We entered into the main temple through this very steep staircase.
Peeking out along the breezeway of the bas-relief of the story of Rama rescuing Sita from the demon king with the help of the monkey king and his monkey soldiers. Our tour guide told us this famous story in Hinduism and had us act it out. Brian was Rama, Katie was Sita, Eliza the demon king, Hayden the monkey king and Lydia a monkey soldier. The story has thousands of verses and is sculpted along this breezeway.
The demon king who could not be killed because every time he was shot in the head, he would grow a new head. Finally, Rama figured out that he needed to shoot the arrow into the demon king’s stomach to kill him.
Rama rising up to shoot his bow and arrow.
Rama on his chariot with his soldiers underneath.
A monkey soldier fighting the demon king to help Rama get his wife Sita back.
This is a bath for the Emperor. He would take a dip to rid himself of impurities. It is located in the middle of the temple.
HOLY moly, this is a BIG bath!
These are the stairs that the Emperor would take to get to the highest part of the Temple. The stairs are very steep because it ensures that a person is showing respect to the gods by using a lot of energy and effort to make his way up to the top. The stairs were closed to visitors on our first day (Hayden, Brian and I went back the next day), because it was Buddhist Holy Day.
These are the stairs that have been “westernized” because visitors have gotten stuck on the stairs and needed help getting down.
The buddha heads were stolen from these statues. The thieves would have taken the whole statue, but it would too have to carry!
This is the way we exited out the back of Angkor Wat.
On our walk out of the grounds of Angkor Wat.
The “back gate” of Angkor Wat. Peaceful and beautiful. It was “super duper” hot, as the girls would say. One good thing about this, though, is it means fewer tourists, which we appreciate.
Dinner this night was at a Mexican restaurant which we found on Tripadvisor, when our excitement for Mexican food was dashed because the restaurant was closed in Ho Chi Minh City.
The girls are appreciating the modern art.
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